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The Haute Couture week just ended in Paris, and it was a golden opportunity for luxury Maisons to present their latest autumn-winter 2022-2023 collection. The week-long event included the presence of two LVMH Maisons, Dior and Fendi, who unveiled their exceptional new creations. A look back at the Dior Haute Couture show on July 4.
The tree of life is at the heart of Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko’s work and is also the starting point for the Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2022-2023 collection, imagined by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Artistic Director of the Maison. This Dior collection is composed of a series of pieces through which folkloric imaginations resonate.
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A vision that freely invests several models thanks to the profusion of embroidery, made of cotton threads, silk and rope. The shades of beige are sometimes punctuated by a touch of black or blue. These embroideries are deployed on cotton fabrics, wool crepe, silk and cashmere. The dresses feature patchworks of lace and guipure in bronze and black. Silk chiffon was chosen for the long and light dresses that follow the lines of the body in a virtuoso game of smocks.
The materials reinterpret the New Look silhouette: the Bar jacket is adorned with a vertically smocked fabric and the skirt is structured with ribbons forming a basque. Hand-loomed fabrics exalt their precious, irregular texture in garments that banish all hems.
Wide silk or cotton embroidered trench coats dress the long dresses. Maria Grazia Chiuri thus contemplates fashion through the filter of art by exploring this territory of traditions. Here, materials and forms are shaped in this space of reflection that is the Atelier, permeable to the social reality in which we live.
For the Fendi Fall/Winter 2022 collection, Kim Jones, Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear, imagined a dialogue between Kyoto, Paris and Rome. The wardrobe is articulated by parallels in different pieces between East and West, masculine and feminine, the natural and man-made, and between tradition and the modern. Floral motifs on asymmetric dresses evoke the Japanese hand-painting technique of Kata Yuzen, while gowns set with glittering crystal express the spirit of Paris. This sense of French ‘Japonisme’ is set off by an Italian take on the tailleur. Nods to masculine codes of tailoring are found in Vicuna fabric suiting and cognac calf leather pieces. With this exquisitely elegant new wardrobe, Kim Jones bridges the past, present and future of the Roman couture Maison.
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